Chashu is a dish made of fattier cuts of pork that are braised over
low heat for a very long time. The low, slow cooking, renders out the
fat while turning the tough collagen in the meat into gelatin which
keeps the meat moist while making it meltingly tender.
If you’re thinking the name sounds an awful lot like the Chinese barbecued pork dish
Char Siu,
you’d be right, because at some point in the past, they were one and
the same. Chashu is often served atop another dish that also originated
in China: ramen. Like its noodley brethren, it’s evolved over the past
century to the point where it bears little resemblance to the original
dish it was based on.
In
the hyper competitive world of ramen in Japan, each shop jealously
guards its secret Chashu formula. Revealing these secrets is the kind of
offense that will have a dozen masked men in black ninja suits at your
door to make you “disappear” in the middle of the night.
Such
is my addiction to this luscious dish, that I’ve set aside all concerns
about personal safety to recreate Santouka Ramen’s famed “toroniku”
Chashu, which can best be described as savoury butter with bits of
tender pork suspended inside. It literally melts into a pool of flavour
on your tongue and easily makes the list of things I’d want to have in
my last meal.
The
trick is to use pork cheek instead of the usual pork shoulder or belly
that most people use for Chashu. If you’ve never tried it before, pork
cheek is porcine perfection, taking the best qualities of a tasty cut
like shoulder and marbling in a lattice of fat between the pink strands
meat. When braised, the pieces of meat are almost imperceptibly
suspended in a mesh of fat, that instantly liquefies when it enters your
warm mouth.
For
the braising liquid, I used a combination of soy sauce and miso. It’s
not a particularly orthodox approach to Chashu making, but I’m pretty
sure it’s what Santouka does. To bring my version full circle back to
its Chinese roots, I’ve also added garlic, ginger, and white pepper
which give the meat some character without overwhelming its porky
goodness.
I serve this over my
home-made tonkotsu ramen, but it’s also great on top of rice, or in fried rice; I’ve even been know to add it to pastas or a Banh Mi or two.
Japanese Chashu
2 well marbled pork cheeks (or pork belly)
3/4 C water
1 Tbs sugar
1 Tbs miso
2 Tbs soy sauce
2 Tbs mirin
2 Tbs sake
1″ piece of ginger sliced
2 cloves garlic smashed
12 white pepper corns
Put
all the ingredients in a pot large enough to accommodate the pork in
one layer but small enough so the liquid more or less covers the pork.
Partially cover with a lid and simmer over medium low heat for one hour,
or until a fork easily passes through the meat. Allow the pork to cool
in the braising liquid then remove the meat from the liquid. Wrap in
plastic and chill in the refrigerator (this makes it easier to slice).
Slice
the Chashu hinly against the grain and serve on top of ramen (the heat
from the soup should warm it up). This is also great sliced a little
thicker and warmed up on top of a bowl of rice with a little of the
braising liquid drizzled on top.
